Just a summary of what I've tried so far: Ajisen, Ippeian, Sampachi, Sapporo, Ippudo, Yokozuna, torihana, Daruma, Tatsuya, Marutama, Iniri, Hakatade, Yukitei, ButaO, Kureha, Musashi, YachiO and some which I may have forgotten. I still couldn't get an opportunity to try Tamashii. Either I couldn't get there early enough (when's that??) or they've sold out. It was about 30 degrees Celsius - boiling hot - so I figure ramen won't be as popular and I'll have a chance.
So this time i was quite determined to get it done! I finished my work for the morning early and was about to escape at 12:00noon As I almost reached the emergency exit, my boss was standing right there having a long chat with someone...... Plan B.
I note that Tamashi will close at 3:00 p.m. to prepare for the dinner crowd (unlike Buta O - which won't close until 11:00 p.m.!) I assume the busiest lunch time at CWB for most professions should be 12:30pm - 2:00pm.
Since my chance of getting a place during peak lunch hour is very low, I decided to risk it and hope to catch the window of opportunity, i.e. the time when most customers were leaving and the shop was about to close. I worked overtime during the lunch hour and brought a book with me to read while I was queuing. I was gearing myself up for the long haul!
根性!
It was a long and sweaty trek from the MTR station, in a suit. After walking through the fume-filled bus-stops, through the bridge where old witches were paid to curse and swear, through a narrow street with meat stalls, I finally arrived at Sharp Street East (1: 55 p.m.). What I saw from afar was a bit of a surprise ... there was no queue ! I though for a second that it's too good to be true. It's either closed or sold out. Luckily, the impossible happened, I got in without having to queue for a single second. Amazing!
!(◎_◎;) ------------ The shop looked very much like an authentic ramen shop in Japan. It's small but still not at crowded as Buta O (Buta O is really the most crowded ramen shop I've even tried). For those who'd tried "Ichiran" in Tokyo, this shop feels a bit like that but even smaller. The key advantage of Tamashii over most ramen shops in Hong Kong was that it had partitions for every single seat. It may feel a bit like a crowded study room but is an excellent idea for those who just wanted to enjoy their ramen in their very own private space.
It had about eight counter seats and 5-6 table seats. The customer turnover was reasonable. About 15 minutes for each group of customers.
As I sat down at the very end of the shop, counter seat number 1 a glass of cold water was already placed there together with the menu. The glass of cold water was very welcomed because it was quite warm inside the shop. I also noticed a very distinct and woody type of aroma which filled the shop...
For general information, the menu was only in Chinese, I believe. They served four different types of ramen - from top to bottom:
---------- Tamashii (Spirit): Original strong pork bone based ramen with Char Siu and Egg;
You could choose how hard you'd like the noodle to be as well as the toppings you'd like to add as well.
Again, I ordered the spicy version - which was the main reason why I came.
Since I've read from most comments that the taste here was on the light side, I ordered the taste to be "extra strong" to be accompanied by normal noodle.
As I was trying to busily get the right focus to get a picture of the restaurant - it was quite dark inside so it's not too easy to get one done - the main chef himself, and not his assistant, served the noodles to me directly through the curtains and said, words to the effect, "here it is, thank you very much". This was quite a pleasant surprise. especially when the main chef was busy cooking multiple bowls of ramen and arranging each bowl nicely at the same time. This sincerity is rare even in Japan.
I took sometime to really taste the broth. It's a bit spicy - mainly due to the shredded chilli (Ito Tougarashi 糸唐辛子 , a herb introduced from Korea) - which basically smells much stronger than it's taste - and a little bit of chilli oil. It also seemed to have a bit of spicy miso. The taste was strong but not too spicy.
However, I found noticed a very interesting aftertaste in the broth. That tallied with the interesting aroma I experienced when I first entered the shop. I believe it's "Shiitake" - Chinese Mushroom.
What distinguishes the broth in Tashi from other shops is most probably the addition of shiitake and possibly also bonito into the pork bone broth, and possibly other vegetable and fungi essence. As a result, it has a very unique taste. I think because of the shiitake essence, the aftertaste was extremely aromatic!
I will suggest that you don't mix the ingredients together too quickly so you could really enjoy the original taste of the broth first.
Once the salmon and the shredded chillies (the red ones at the center of the noodle) are mixed into the broth, I Those will overwhelm the rest of the tastes unfortunately.
The delicate aftertaste of the shiitake and bonito broth will still be there, but the whole broth became muddled and mixed up a bit too much.
The sweet corn was very fresh and sweet however. The nori was also good stuff.
I quite liked the noodle, which was the Sapporo style. It's similar to Hakadate but a bit thinner. Good quality and chewy.
The char siu was quite nice if I remembered correctly. Definitely no complaints.
All in all, I guess fans of "Buta O", "Kureha" and "Ippudo" will find the broth here a bit light;
Fans of "Daruma" might find the strength of the broth here right. However, I think there is the special aftertaste here which is lacking in Daruma and most ramen shops.
Fans of "Yokozuna" should like the added fresh aroma from the shiitake.
What impressed me the most about "Tamashi" was really the Tamashi - spirit - of the ramen master. He served ramen to each customers personally - even as he was required to tend a million other things.
I noticed that the master chef would thank each and every customer at least three times, that's right, 3 times, when they leave.
The first time was when they finished their noodle and then stood up to pay. The second time was when the customer approached the cashier; and, finally, when the customer was leaving the shop.
That's three times for each and every group of customers, without fail.
The master did it without fail and without any change of voice tone, even if I've noticed that none but one customer of the 4 groups responded. This is, for good or for worse, generally normal in Hong Kong. I suppose most Hong Kongers are polite, but these seemed to be a lack of proper phrases to express one's gratitude to the chef and shop staff (at least not that I know of).
As I was leaving, the chef again said thank you to me in Japanese. He then said it again as I was paying.
At this point, I was quite touched by his sincerity. So, even if I might look a bit odd and may scare the customers around, I went back to the seat, lifted the curtain which separated the kitchen and the customers, and said to the chef, in my not so authentic Japanese, "Thank you very much for the great meal!"
有心,有靈魂的拉麵:常存歉虛,感激之心.
自己離開魂的時候,師傅亦對我欠身說第一遍"ありがどうございました!"
我付錢給那全程有禮又有笑容的女店員時,師傅再欠身說一遍"ありがどうございました!"
。。。
相信多數香港食客都是有禮儀之人。只是日常廣東話又好像沒有太多向廚師或服務員表達尊重及感激的詞句。
而自己有時亦被商業化及機械化的日語"錄音"麻木了,忘卻向服務員道謝。
反觀師傅的誠意,他的「魂」,實在令人心生敬仰。
。。。
想到這裡,雖然有點唐突,又可能嚇壞在旁的食客,
但我返回1號位,
稍微揭開隔著廚房的布屏,
對師傅說了聲:
”ご馳走様でした!”
感謝您提供的美食!辛苦了!
然後在一大遍日語的感謝聲中離開。。。
題外話/補充資料:
這次可以說是洗滌靈魂的經歷,以第100篇作記.
Although I've written the draft of this review quite a while ago, I decide to leave it for my 100 review to mark this special dining experience.
This is a place which we wanted to try since it opened sometime this year I believe. It's rather busy during dinner time so we aimed for lunch time. Actually, I somehow regard all tonkatsu, i.e. fried cutlet, shops including Saboten as a better place for lunch than dinner. In fact, Ginza Bairin is the only TonKatsu place which I'd even consider having an early dinner because of it's more spacious and calmer ambience. Not even Romankan Yokohama or TonKichi. I can't relax and have a beer or Sochu in these places. Having said that, once in a while, I'll crave for a Japanese pork cutlet. Anyway, after a dangerous trek down the staircase,
小心梯級!
we were shown a table for two, sandwiched between two other tables which felt a little bit crowded. Luckily, after a more spacious table was cleared, we asked for that table and were given that without any problems. Good service.
Saboten really invested a lot in interior design. The whole place was very nice renovated with light coloured wooded beams and pillars everywhere.
有型的裝潢
It's quite comfortable. I later noticed this on the ceiling:
膠扳散開冷氣,不會直接吹落客人或食物上.夠細心!直得其他食肆,特別係酒樓,參考.
It's an excellent idea which I think many restaurants in Hong Kong could adopt. The plastic plate prevented the cold wind from blowing on to the customers directly but wouldn't not affected the coolness of the place.
After a long and hard look at the menu*, we settled for a Kagoshima pork set for two plus a separate potion of scallop. The main reason for the kagoshima set was because it was a featured product printed on a separate menu and highlighted on a menu. The scallop has always been my wife's favorite dish. The kagoshima pork ϵ( 'Θ' )϶ turned out to be their signature dish.
You could choose one out of three fillings for the pork maki (roll). I remembered it was cheese, siso leave and one which I couldn't remember. We chose siso leave.
After we've placed our orders, a big plate of lettuce, pickled cucumbers and pickled turnips were placed on our table. As with most authentic tonkatsu restaurants, it's complimentary and all you can eat. According to my wife, you could add either the sesame sauce to the lettuce or you could add the vinegar sauce to it, just don't mix them together. I tried mixing the two into one bowl of lettuce and the result was
生菜,漬物放題.生菜可落芝麻醬或醋-但不建議兩種一齊落!
You could also choose between plain white rice or rice with barley. We chose the latter. No doubt this gives you the feel-good (but false) impression that you're actually having a healthy meal and it's OK for your cholesterol! The rice was also all you can eat. :bowl Actually, the rice with barley was quite nice. It's really healthy, and the barley was quite chewy. :
”意”米飯-降膽固醇?
The set arrived after about 7-8 minutes wait, which was quite good. The set consisted of two pretty large fried prawns, two pork maki (with siso leave filling), a small piece of pork fillet and a bigger piece of kagoshima pork:
鹿兒島二人餐:千層豚肉卷(?),紫蘇卷,細豬柳,忌廉蟹肉卷,炸蝦.
The polite and friendly waitress (thin, dyed hair, tied up in a bun, who spoke English and Mandarin) introduced the different fried stuff to us. She also introduced the functions of the different sauces to us. I never really cared about which sauce is supposed to be for what type of food only but after I've specifically experimented with different sauce, I found those tips very important!
She told us that the sauce closest to the kagoshima pork roll, was...well, for the kagoshima pork roll. The sauce seemed to be vinegar based - i.e. "ponzu" (vinegar cooked with mirin, honey, bonito, konbu, soy sauce, some citrus juice then is added to the mixture), with some added spring onions.
The tar tar sauce was good with the fried scrimps.
She also told us that the sauce provided in a jar, after you put about two scoops into your sesame dish, was good with the small pork fillet.
左至右:百搭醬汁-適合所有肉類及海鮮,芝麻醬,醋- 生菜用(不建議兩種一齊落!)
A very detailed explanation indeed.
In fact, I deliberately tried to dip the scrimp into the ponzu sauce and the scrimp tasted horrible however, once I dipped the scrimp into the tar tar sauce, it really brought out the sweetness of the scrimp!
On the other hand, once you dip the kagoshima pork into the ponzu, it really brought out the meat aroma. It matched very well with the both the kagoshima pork maki and the other pork fillet, but, interestingly, especially with the kagoshima pork maki as recommended!
Finally, now you won't be surprised if I tell you that the small pork fillet matched best with the original sauce.
Try it to believe it!
(No wonder all my Japanese relatives and friends always required a detailed explanation on the sauces provided once we're at a Dai Pai Dong or Chinese restaurants! There is quite a lot of science behind different types of sauces! Being a Hong Konger, I'm quite casual about these things. Usually I just dip my fried squid into the nearest chilli or sweet and sour sauce! )
Something about the sesame:
芝麻並不一定要全部磨成粉末.磨一半亦別有風味.
I've noticed my wife did not grind everything into pulp whereas some Japanese people prefer a more grounded texture. There is no need to grind every single sesame seed into powder. In fact, you could simply grind half of it. The result was quite wonderful! Once you dip the pork fillet in it, you'll have the light aromatic sesame taste which came from the powdered sesame, as well as the strong aroma of the ungrounded one.
A lot about the sauces and sesame so a bit about the food itself:
Saboten actually meant cactus in Japanese. Even after I've checked their group's website, I still couldn't figure out why they use "Cactus" as the name. The kanji is not used in Japan. Perhaps the meaning in the name is born out by the large amount of bread crumbs used in frying all the cutlets. Other than the normal batter, they also used a lot of coarse bread crumbs. A bit too much we think, it may hurt your mouth a little bit of you're not careful, like if you're eating a cactus??
The cactus imagery applies especially to the fried prawns so please be careful when you're eating it. The prawns were reasonably fresh.
The pork fillet was a bit tough. Nothing special. Thankfully, the sauce was there to save it. In fact, I won't recommend it.
The Kagoshima roll with siso leave tasted quite nice. The meat was much more tender then the normal pork fillet. The siso was tangy so mixed well with it. This one is good with the ponzu and the original sauce.
The Kagoshima pork maki was also nice. It seemed to be about 7-8 sheets of kagoshima pork rolled together and then fried. The effect was quite good. Remember to dip this into the ponzu.
The Scallop was quite good. It was a bit thinner than usual. The cutlet scallop at "Romankan Yokohama" is still the best in my opinion.
鹿兒島豚肉卷,紫蘇卷都軟熟有肉香.細豬柳較韌.忌廉蟹肉卷-好香.炸蝦”杉口”!帶子一般.
The bill came down to HK$450 in total, which I think was OK.
Like many commentators before me, I've tried Tonkichi, Romankan Yokohama and Ginza Bairin. They all have varying strengths.
Ginza Bairin (I've only tried the TST branch) is the most comfortable and spacious. The normal pork fillet there is not bad. However, I've been there twice and their quality varies quite a lot. Sometimes their batter is soggy.
Tonkichi's pork fillets are usually quite tender. However, it's less spacious unless you could get the rare box seat and the queues are always long. It's a bit more rushed and expensive. The batter is similar to Saboten but with less "sharp edges".
I think Romankan Yokohama is overall the best. The different types of fried pork cutlet are usually consistently tender. They are best in terms of fried seafood, especially the scallop, which was big and juicy the time I tried it. The batter is a bit lighter than Saboten. The seats were a bit more packed though and I don't think they had all you can eat rice and lettuce.
Saboten has a really cool interior design. The kagoshima pork was good. Generally not as expensive as Tonkichi. However, the normal pork fillet was tough and the batter hurts your mouth a bit.
The service at Saboten was good. The price was OK.
All in all, a positive dining experience. Not worth a long wait but worth a try.
*This is another thing which always confuses me - I've noticed that the menus in most Japanese cutlet shops always have very little or no description of their products. Every type of pork cutlet seemed to be their signature dish! It's also a bit hard to remember what you've eaten unless you've made a conscious effort to do so. All cutlet seemed to look pretty much the same! ϵ( 'Θ' )϶ Perhaps it's assumed that you know the differences between loin, fillet...etc. !(◎_◎;) I think the safest question you could ask the manager is "which one is the most tender?"